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The apparel industry might be known for setting trends, but underneath all the marketing, branding, and merchandising lies an enormous problem: an over-reliance on synthetic fabrics. (i.e., polyester, nylon, elastane, acrylic, etc.)
These fabrics, which are cheaper to source and commonly used in designing clothes across all categories, not only affect the environment through plastic pollution but can significantly impact our health.
The good news? Making a switch to plastic-free apparel is easier than you may think. Given the rising threat of plastics, forward-thinking apparel brands have started to completely eliminate synthetic textiles, replacing them with all-natural or bio-based alternatives.
Clothes made from synthetics (plastics) pose a risk to human health because of the chemical nature of each thread. These synthetics, derived from petroleum and chemically engineered into textiles, break down through everyday use and eventually shed and spread microplastics onto our skin and into the air we breathe.
Microplastics, notoriously known as chemical carriers, pose various health risks to humans when exposed to the body via skin contact or ingestion. These include increased risks of cardiovascular disease, hormonal imbalances, neurological implications, and irritation in the lungs and digestive tract.
Research on the health implications of microplastics, specifically from apparel, is fairly new and ongoing, but studies show that microplastics can spread to every organ in the human body.
Removing synthetic apparel from your life can be extremely efficient in limiting your exposure to plastics. And fortunately, there are a ton of healthier alternatives one can opt for.
Apparel made with natural fabrics: Choose brands using all-natural fibers like cotton, linen, wool, and silk to design their apparel. It’s the safest bet. All natural fibers derived from plants are biodegradable and free of microplastics. There’s a reason they’ve been clothing humans for centuries.
Apparel made with bio-based fabrics: Bio-based apparel is another plastic-free alternative. These fabrics, such as rayon, are derived from renewable natural resources like wood pulp and chemically engineered into fibers. Remember, while mostly plastic-free, some bio-based fabrics may still involve harsh chemicals in processing.
Look for brands prioritizing natural dyes: The textile dye industry is another toxic mess with significant health concerns. Today, roughly 90% of our clothes are dyed synthetically. Toxic chemicals are often used in the production process, some of which contain carcinogenic properties. Some dyes are so potent that they can alter the natural properties of textiles like cotton. This potency sometimes results in cotton fibers acquiring characteristics akin to microplastics.
Certifications & transparency: The best plastic-free apparel brands prioritize supply-chain transparency, organic practices, and 3rd-party certifications such as Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), MADE SAFE, and OEKO-TEX.
The problem is twofold: For starters, synthetic textiles in apparel take centuries to biodegrade. In other words, when you throw these clothes away, they don’t just decompose and disappear—they end up in landfills and our environment. Simply put, synthetic textiles are almost impossible to recycle.
Then comes the microplastics dilemma. As synthetic textiles break down, especially during washing and drying cycles, microplastics are released in our waterways and atmosphere and eventually find their way into our oceans and land. Studies show the synthetic textiles industry alone is responsible for over a third of the ocean's microplastic pollution
Microplastics are released from synthetics in apparel through everyday use and during washing and drying cycles while the fibers are exposed to heat, stress, or abrasion.
Interestingly, it’s not difficult to see microplastics released from apparel in real time with your own eyes. The laundry room is one common spot where microplastics can easily be found in your home. After a drying cycle, your dryer lint screen hosts a range of shredded microfibers.
In another simple example, if you were to take a pair of worn socks made with nylon, stretch the fabric, and snap it back under good light, you’d see something reminiscent of a small dust cloud abruptly appear. That dust cloud typically includes a combination of microfibers and chemically hazardous microplastics.
All-natural apparel – completely free of plastics – is generally more expensive than synthetic apparel for numerous reasons:
Cost of raw materials: Both natural plant-based and protein-based fibers require more labor-intensive cultivation and harvesting methods than synthetic fibers, which are derived from petroleum, a relatively cheap resource.
Apparel quality and features: To enhance the versatility and functionality of natural clothing, manufacturers and designers often employ complex weaving techniques and engage in extensive research. This effort focuses on emulating the distinct properties of synthetic fabrics, such as their fit, stretch, temperature regulation, or even water resistance. Such processes and innovations contribute to the higher costs associated with natural apparel.
Environmental and social responsibility: Brands that produce plastic-free apparel often invest in sustainable, ethical manufacturing processes. This includes fair labor practices, which often means paying higher wages, and environmentally responsible production methods that may be more costly than conventional methods.
Lack of economies of scale: The plastic-free apparel market is smaller than synthetic apparel. This smaller production scale can lead to higher costs per unit, as these brands can't leverage the economies of scale that larger, synthetic fiber producers can.
Putting it all together: The fast fashion industry heavily relies on synthetic materials, constantly seeking ways to reduce costs and expedite production. This sector often opts for inexpensive source materials like polyester to quickly and cheaply deliver apparel to consumers. Such brands achieve scale through these cost-cutting measures.
In contrast, the slow fashion movement prioritizes traditional farming methods and sustainable practices. As a result, they rely more on manual labor and have longer production timelines. This approach ultimately leads to higher production costs, reflecting their commitment to quality and environmental responsibility.
Yes and no. Synthetic fibers are practically engineered for durability. They can last for a long, long time (in fact, too long) and often boast unique features such as wrinkle, stain, and water resistance, offering consumers a more bullet-proof apparel option.
However, this doesn't mean natural fabrics lack durability. Many plant-based fibers, like hemp and linen, owe their strength to the structure of cellulose, which imparts high tensile strength, making them tear-resistant. Animal-based fibers, such as silk and wool, are also known for their resilience. In addition, natural fibers are generally easier to repair and patch, which can extend the garment's life.
Good to know: If you’re seeking durability and longevity in the all-natural department, opt for apparel designed with fabrics such as linen, hemp, silk, and wool. Cotton garments, especially those lacking stronger weaves (twill or sateen), are more prone to tearing.
Yes! Certified organic labels play a crucial role in choosing plastic-free clothing. They ensure the absence of harmful pesticides and chemicals used in the growth of natural fibers.
Yvon Chouinard, the founder of Patagonia, in his autobiography “Let My People Go Surfing," reveals a surprising fact: garments marketed as "100% cotton" often contain only about 73% cotton, with the remainder being “resins, plasticizers, and chemicals added in the finishing process.”
This highlights the value of opting for certified organic fabrics, which prohibit such additives and offer a more authentic, natural textile option.
Now, while this is all true – that synthetics do boast some unique properties, especially during workouts – we must ask ourselves one important question: Are these workout clothes healthy for us?
Since the invention of synthetic fabrics, the sportswear industry has never looked back. Before we knew it, our workout or running clothes could stretch and fit skin-tight. Do you sweat a lot? Worry no more – these dry quick. Your favorite lightweight and durable “athletic” tee could withstand even the most rigorous workouts.
Big brands like Lululemon, Nike, and Under Armour have popularized the idea that high performance equals synthetic materials. The narrative has been clear: To perform better, we must equip ourselves with savvy activewear full of nylons, polyesters, and other “technical” blends.
But this perception is far from reality.
Emerging research now casts a shadow over the once-celebrated synthetics. Studies indicate that during intense workouts, when our bodies are most vulnerable, synthetic clothing might be detrimental rather than beneficial. This irony is stark - the clothes designed to boost our workouts might undermine the health benefits we strive for.
Thankfully, a new wave of innovation in plastic-free activewear is emerging. Pioneering brands, some of which we proudly showcase in UNWRAP, prove that performance wear doesn't have to be synonymous with plastics.
While research continues to evolve, here are some of the known health risks associated with synthetic apparel while working out:
Synthetics often contain hormone-disrupting chemicals
Synthetic workout clothing often contain phthalates such as BPA, a chemical linked to various health issues, including fertility problems, obesity, diabetes, heart disease, cancer, and developmental issues in children. Contrary to the health benefits sought from exercise, BPA and other phthalates commonly found in plasticizers act as endocrine disruptors. The Center for Environmental Health has detected BPA in various synthetic activewear, including items from well-known brands with strong chemical management programs.
Sweat leaches flame-retardant chemicals from microplastics
A 2023 study from the University of Birmingham found that human sweat enhances the leaching of hazardous chemicals from microplastics. While the study mainly focused on packaging plastics and did not directly investigate common fashion synthetics like polyester or nylon, the findings are believed to be broadly applicable to other plastics and chemicals commonly found in activewear.
Dyes used on synthetic fabrics could be affecting your skin
The dyes used in synthetic fabrics, necessary for coloring materials like polyester, can adversely affect the skin. A 2023 study from Duke University supported these findings, indicating that azobenzene disperse dyes can act as immune sensitizers, increasing the risk of skin sensitization. This issue is particularly relevant for those who frequently work out in synthetic athletic wear. Consistent contact and friction can exacerbate skin reactions.
Synthetic fibers smell. To combat the smell, toxic nanoslivers are sometimes added
Synthetic fabrics have a greater tendency to retain and develop unpleasant odors. And because they’re water-repellent, these odors are tough to wash away. As a result, synthetic fabrics are sometimes treated with less-researched anti-odor agents like nanosilver, which poses risks due to their toxicity to humans. Studies indicate that nanosilver can be absorbed through the skin and distributed throughout the body to various organs.
Removing synthetic apparel from your life can be extremely efficient in limiting your exposure to plastics. And fortunately, there are a ton of healthier alternatives one can opt for.
Apparel made with natural fabrics: Choose brands using all-natural fibers like cotton, linen, wool, and silk to design their apparel. It’s the safest bet. All natural fibers derived from plants are biodegradable and free of microplastics. There’s a reason they’ve been clothing humans for centuries.
Apparel made with bio-based fabrics: Bio-based apparel is another plastic-free alternative. These fabrics, such as rayon, are derived from renewable natural resources like wood pulp and chemically engineered into fibers. Remember, while mostly plastic-free, some bio-based fabrics may still involve harsh chemicals in processing.
Look for brands prioritizing natural dyes: The textile dye industry is another toxic mess with significant health concerns. Today, roughly 90% of our clothes are dyed synthetically. Toxic chemicals are often used in the production process, some of which contain carcinogenic properties. Some dyes are so potent that they can alter the natural properties of textiles like cotton. This potency sometimes results in cotton fibers acquiring characteristics akin to microplastics.
Certifications & transparency: The best plastic-free apparel brands prioritize supply-chain transparency, organic practices, and 3rd-party certifications such as Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), MADE SAFE, and OEKO-TEX.
While synthetic sportswear offers certain technical benefits, such as quicker drying and more stretch, the performance advantage it provides is less significant than commonly thought.
Our friends at Community Clothing said it best:
“The men’s 100m record before synthetics stood at 9.95 seconds. Only very few people have ever run faster. The men’s 1500m record has improved by less than 3% since the development of synthetic clothing and much of this can be attributed to modern training methods. The performance edge, is very small.”
Like Pelé and Jesse Owens, we too can achieve great things without synthetic, skin-tight apparel.
Currently, leading brands in plastic-free activewear are embracing materials like merino wool, lyocell, modal, and innovative cotton blends and weaves for their clothing designs. These fibers have been carefully selected for their distinctive qualities and advantages.
Merino wool: Merino wool takes the crown as arguably the best plastic-free fabric to wear while working out. These protein fibers are naturally elastic (they can stretch a bit) and boast moisture-wickening properties. So if you sweat a lot, merino wool doesn’t absorb it well, keeping your body cool and (mostly) dry throughout your workout.
Rayon (lyocell and modal): Both lyocell and modal are types of rayon derived from wood pulp that are popular choices in the athletic apparel world. Activewear using these fabrics will look and feel similar to a Nike Dri-FIT tee made from synthetics – shiny, stretchy, stretchy and moisture-wickening. Keep in mind that while plastic-free, the production method of modal often uses harsh chemicals, making lyocell a safer choice.
Cotton Blends: Plastic-free activewear brands aren’t totally against using cotton, despite its sweat absorption woes. We’ve seen companies use cotton blends with wool, lyocell, and even hemp to create functional workout attire.
Yes, of course! Some people will say it’s a terrible idea as cotton absorbs sweat easily, will make your clothes heavier (damp), and may cause chafing. These are downfalls to keep in mind, of course.
But cotton is still a great plastic-free activewear option, especially for leisure activities. It’s also the most affordable.
Unfortunately, the activewear niche is still hooked on nylons, stuck on the idea that to be active, clothes must be skin-tight and extremely moisture-repellent. There are hundreds of brands offering “eco-conscious” activewear options that UNWRAP has decided not to list because of this.
Are they lo-plastic? Yes, we often see sports bras and leggings, for example, with ~90% lyocell (or, another plastic-free material) and ~10% elastane. These options are still a good step in limiting one’s exposure to plastics! However, at UNWRAP, our commitment to a strictly no-plastic directory aims to encourage more significant industry change.